Slum Tours in Mumbai

By Mohan

On the eve of the smashing success of Slum Dog Millionaire at the Oscars , my report on a walk through Dharavi would be most timely.

Dharavi was probably a small village on the outskirts of Mumbai. In the mid 19th century migration from other parts of the country started to the bigger cities of India in the hope for better economic opportunities. Mumbai was no exception as it had the makings of a melting pot.

As slum dwellers started growing in numbers they were directed towards Dharavi which was the end of city limits of Mumbai at that time. Today the slums of Dharavi stand in the centre of Mumbai conveniently connected to the different parts of the city and the National Highway corridors.

I had heard and read about Dharavi Slums but had never visited the area. My imagination of slums was poverty , people living in the worst conditions, slum lords, drug peddlers, drunkards, underworld, mafia, poor children, unhygienic conditions so on and so forth.

I have heard about companies offering tours to the Slums of Dharavi. Slum Dog Millionaire has evoked more interest amongst travelers for the Slum Tours of Mumbai. I decided to see it for myself to decide whether it would be an experience worth considering for our guests.

My guide was Dev a young lad from Gujarat. He’s the 3rd generation of his family who have been living in Kumharwadi (Potters area) of Dharavi Slums. Dev reminded me of Jamal in several ways for he was ambitious and driven. His father was a potter and now runs a retail business. Dev has studied in a convent school and has a degree in commerce. He’s currently pursuing a post graduate degree and aims for an MBA. Currently he’s employed with JP Morgan as a Drafter.

The tour begins from the industrial part of Dharavi Slums in Mumbai. We walked through the area visiting several units that are engaged in re-cycling of plastic, metal, copper, corrugated boxes, etc. We came across several bakeries, soap manufacturing units, tanneries, women making snacks like chips, papads etc.

The tour then goes through the residential part. If your thought that the lanes in Old Delhi and Benares are narrow. Wait until you visit Dharavi. It cannot get narrower than this. Some of the houses probably never see sunlight. But residents have essentials like water and Mumbai’s uninterrupted electricity.

It’s a cluster of unplanned construction of dwellings that has taken place over years and people have accepted and adjusted to whatever space they can afford to pay for. The tour ends at a community center where children were being given lessons in English. The whole tour lasts about 2.5 to 3 hours depending on your pace and the time you would like spend.

At the end of the tour Dev took us to his house though we couldn’t go in his parents and some guests were sleeping.

Some important points that need to be included in the briefing given to guests prior to the walk.

First of all a general overview of the settlement and living conditions is to be given to guests as entering Dharavi for the first time can be quiet overwhelming. It is best not to engage in conversations with people and ignore any remarks made by bystanders. At all times it is best to follow your guide’s instructions and keep walking.

Dress modestly while going on a slum tour and since there is plenty of walking, a pair of good walking shoes is a must.

Lastly this tour should only be offered as an option for those who seek the experience. We did have a group of Americans who had done the trip before me. Dev told me that they enjoyed the trip. Written feedback is awaited which will also be posted here.

To conclude here’s a something my friend Jaideep Gupta wrote after watching the Oscars this morning.

“As I watched the Oscars today two thoughts passed through my mind. First, the journey from despair to hope is not a fantasy. The slum kids Azaruddin and Rubina did just that when they climbed the stage at Kodak theatre. Second, the happy gathering of the cast of the movie on the stage at Kodak theatre on winning the Oscars was so Indian. This large noisy inclusive and participative society of ours was showcased perfectly at the Oscars today. In everyway JAI HO”!