Nihangs & Hola Mohalla

- By Shoba Mohan

Nihang Singhs belong to a martial tradition that was initiated by Guru Gobind Singh, the tenth Sikh guru. Their way of life, costume, training in weapons, martial arts and riding has not changed since the Guru's lifetime, more than three hundred years ago.  Some people believe that Nihangs are a relic of the past whose skills do not have a modern relevance, but most admit that Nihang tradition is a colourful part of the Punjab state heritage. The word ‘Nihang’ is Persian for crocodiles and it is believed that the Guru’s forces fought so valiantly that the baffled Mughal army likened the Guru’s men to ferocious crocs.

Nihangs are semi-nomadic people and attempt to preserve their heritage and tradition by strict adherance of rehat maryada (the religious code of social conduct). They still live in camps called chhaawni (cantonment), eat in iron utensils (batta) and move in formations. Men and women both train in horsemanship, swordsmanship, and in the Punjabi martial art known as Gatka.  During foreign rule the Nihangs fearlessly defended Sikh shrines and the Sikh way of life. In times of peace they travel to festivals and fairs throughout India, staging displays of horsemanship and martial skills.

Meaning of Hola Mohalla : The word Hola, an interchangeable phonetic short form of Holla, is a derivative of a Punjabi term meaning onset of attack or frontal assault. Mohalla has an Arabic root and is a description meaning an army battalion or military regiment marching in full regalia. Though some research sites claim that it is an effort to infuse the spirit of combat / aggression the festive ‘Holi’ was converted to ‘Hola’ which almost sounds like a battle cry !

Hola  reminds  people about the tradition of meaningful festivity, and displays the valour inculcated in the Sikh community by Guru Gobind Singh, who took to armed struggle against tyranny. The Shivaliks with the temple of Naina Devi form an impressive back drop for this festival which is preceded many other traditions that span a few days before the actual Hola Mohalla. Massive processions of Nihangs in costumes and color of their sect make their way to Anantpur Sahib, saffron flags hoisted atop every vehicle and the tradition of langar, voluntary community meals are set up all the way to the venue to feed the pilgrims and the devout. 

The third day of the Hola Mohalla coincides with Holi and entirely belongs to the Nihangs, who begin their preparations on this day very early with a bath and prayers. A large number of spectators gather around the place where the Nihangs prepare phenomenal quantities of a concoction of cannabis, milk, almonds, sugar, and other nuts, to be served as pershad throughout the day.  Dressed in new saffron or deep blue robes, the Nihangs move from their chhaawnis led by horsemen beating nagaras (drums). Armed with their traditional weapons, the Nihangs pay obeisance at the historic Gurdwara Takht Keshgarh Sahib ( at Anantpur ) and proceed towards Charan Ganga stadium for the performance. Though the festival itself is a three-day affair, the procession of devotees carries on for a full week, and hundreds of families come in trucks from as far as Calcutta and Patna, Gwalior and Nanded.

A mohalla (procession) to symbolise liberty, freedom, bravery and wisdom is a large part of the celebration. Once called  Guru di ladli fauj (the Guru's beloved army) the Nihangs are the main attraction of the present-day Hola Mohalla celebration. In what appears to be an effortless ( if a bit chaotic )  management the Punjab police and traffic police manages an exodus of close to two lakh people, add to this horses, elephants, tourists cars and buses, bikes and ‘maruts’ it looked like a movie set gone haywire but the program began on schedule at 2 pm.

Colours of the Nihang costume, bedecked horses and elephants , mock battles and martial arts display  ( Gatka ) take up most part of the three hour fest, all the while cheered by an audience chanting in unison – ‘Bole Sonihal”. The most exciting event which had the crowds roaring was when the Nihang’s  displayed their riding skills. Even we, a group of slightly ‘angrez’  could’nt resist going out to the field for a closer look. Racing the wind on Kathiwadi or a Marwari breeds tent pegging, riding standing up and even riding two horses at once were some of the feats displayed. Continuous procession of Nihangs  some who look like war lords seated on pick-ups and suv’s accompanied by some seriously armed followers kept up a steady procession ,  others  on the field put up displays of mock fights with spears, swords and knives. By the end of the three hours , the Charan Ganga stadium an elliptical field of over 10,000 sq. yards  with a seating capacity of over a lakh resembled a battle field enveloped in a cloud of dust, sounds of nagadas ( drums ), chanting and all the breathless cheering from the audience.

It must be added at this point that except for a massive traffic jam ( which we were unaffected by , thanks to our friend Harkeerat’s connections and meticulous planning ) the entire program was completely without incidence – consider this that there is palpable rivalry among various Nihang sects,  a lot of them especially the elders seemed high on cannabis,  the sheer display of machinery strength in terms of sten-guns and AK’s and the swelling crowds was intimidating. To recommend this as a program for inbound tourists would require a huge amount of co-ordination, extensive briefing and possibly a strong disclaimer.

For more images click on the picassa link here :

https://picasaweb.google.com/shobatsm/HollaMohallaMarch202011?authkey=Gv1sRgCJyd-dO3-IvdrgE

Anantpur Sahib a part of the Panj Takth – one of the five main Gurudwars revered by the Sikhs is an important pilgrimage site as this is where the Tenth Sikh Guru, Guru Gobind Singhji initiated the principles of Khalsa and its self-sacrificing, brave and castles fellowship. The Gurudwara here is  Keshgarh Sahib.  

Chamkaur Sahib :  Not far from Anantpur Sahib also in distt. Rupnagar is Chamkaur Sahib that houses the Gurudwara Katalgarh Sahib. This is where Guru Gobind Singh is said to have alighted and used it as a citadel from where two of the most important battles against the Imperial army was fought.  

Fatehpur Sahib near Sirhind is a complex of several important shrines or Gurudwaras that are linked to the younger sahibzadas (younger sons) of Guru Gobind Singh. Located about 40 Kms from Chandigarh and marks the sad site of the execution of the two younger sons of Guru Gobind Singh in 1705 ordered by  Wazir Khan of Kunjpura, Sirhind.   

Hoshiarpur  & Citrus County :   I mention the above three Gurudwaras as they are historically connected and also can be placed in programs between Chandigarh, Hoshiarpur and Amritsar for an intensive itinerary of Sikh Culture with or without  ‘Hola Mohalla’.  

Hoshiarpur District was once an extensive district of Punjab that also included some parts of Himachal. Today an affluent farming zone district head quarters,  Hoshiarpur is a 45 mins drive from Phagwara ( closest rail head on the Amristsar Shatabdi Route ), 2 hours by road from Amritsar and about 5 hours from Dharamshala, the district borders Himachal on one side and has extensive fields of wheat, mustard, poplars etc.  

Citrus County is the personal farm of Harkeerat Singh and his wife Jasleen who own a hundred acres of Kinnow farm in the vicinity of their estate. One of the pilot Farm Stay projects to be approved by the Punjab Government  Citrus County offers accommodation in 9 air-conditioned tents and 3 large Suites in the main house. Run is a very personal ‘welcome to a large house’ fashion Harkeerat and Jasleen put in a lot of effort to offer a warm and friendly experience. Packed meals on picnics, walks in the farms, tractor drives, exploring a jungle of kikkar ( Acacia Nilotica)   and visiting a wetland not far from Hoshiarpur are some explorations that are possible.  http://www.citruscountyfarmstays.com/ . Not really luxury at the moment, Citrus County is presently working on some upgrades which would place it among the best of the farming homestays that are being encouraged by the Punjab tourism.    

Shoba Mohan Based on conversations with the highly informed  and ‘proud to be a Sikh’ Mr.Bhagawant Singh ( Harkeerat’s father ) and information available on sikiwiki.com , allaboutsikhs.com

Route Check to Ramathra : the fort, the country side and the lake

  

By Shoba Mohan

The above line is taken from Ramathra’s earlier brochure and this simple line attracted me to make a quick trip in 2007. Ramathra Fort now has a brilliant new brochure, but the fort, the country side and the lake will always be Ramathra’s foremost attractions. 

An important factor when proposing a destination hotel and an experiential stay is the routing. And on a quick trip to Ramathra, this is the reason I took my hand around my head to touch my nose , so to speak.

Shatabdi to Agra on a crisp winter morning from the ever bustling New Delhi Railway station was my choice. There was the train on time, the typical Railway signages indicating the coach number - an unblinking red. The train was on platform number one, on time.... so there I was on my seat, reclining and content to snooze. Two hours later, I woke up to be told that the train was still on Platform No 1, New Delhi Railway Station ! The reason; a train collision near Mathura when some police officers pulled the chain to re-capture a runaway convict. An express train made an unprecedented stop, only to have another train literally cut into its last few coaches. Causalities were many and the sight we passed on the now clear tracks was terrible.

Agra to Ramathra took me a little over five hours, including a much appreciated lunch stop at Rajasthan Motel in Mahua. Saag, Tandoori Roti, Tadka Dal and a raita of crisp cucumber in creamy, fresh yoghurt from the local gaushala ( cow shed ) – allow me to list this as one of the attractions enroute.

At sunset, Ramathra Fort stood in quiet welcome while Ravi and Gitanjali received me with a much needed cup of tea. That night, dinner and drinks were under the stars - the night soft and silent, the stars twinkling close enough to touch, the air fragrant with some known flowers and numerous other unknown scents. Finally dropping off the mind cliff into a dreamless sleep.... to wake up to the soft “towee” of a rufus treepie just outside the window of my suite, all this in a day’s work ! I can now understand why many of my friends envy what I do.

The outdoors and outside overwhelm you in Ramathra – the fort itself, the mute crumbling buildings inside waiting their turn at restoration, the stairs upto the ramparts, views of the lake and the country once there, walking trails around and upto the fort, watching birds from hand paddled boats. It was only in the morning that I took in the interiors of my suite , the warm colours of the upholstery, the attentive amenities, candles and the lighting - all a part of the cheerful suite, one of the six new suites that Ravi and Gitanjali restored last November. Two of the upstairs suites are a statement in luxury - space, light and views, out-door bath, shower and a terrace overlooking the vast expanse of the countryside around. 

Return was relatively trouble free, driving about 4 hours to Jaipur Railway station to connect to Ajmer Statabdi for New Delhi. Getting off at the Gurgaon Railway Station to reach home even before the train would have crossed the outer into New Delhi precincts was a personal triumph !

http://www.ramathrafort.com/

Travelling in Rajasthan amidst drizzle and downpour : Part 2

By Shoba Mohan

Jodhpur was a quick stop to explore Ras Haveli, eat Mirchi Vadas at TeepSa’s, have an immaculately brewed Darjeeling at the Umaid Bhawan and make it to Chhatra Sagar at top speed. Ras Haveli is Jodhpur’s latest intrigue - a classy and contemporary new boutique hotel built at the foot of the towering Mehrangarh Fort. Auto Rickshaws painted blue are assigned to pick you up from the city centre right into the Haveli gates, but not before you are overwhelmed by the narrow and scruffy , colourful and commercial lanes of the old city.

A late lunch at Chhatra Sagar as always was a meal to cherish over a lively conversation of which all I remember is bursting into peals of laughter. Fort Barli over two hours from Chhatra Sagar was our next stop, reaching there well after the sun was set. Aniruddh Singh and his family’s warm welcome and offer to stay the night was most tempting . However Shahpura Bagh was on the agenda for the night. On reaching, all we managed was a brief hello and hit the snoozers in our assigned suites.

Next morning began early to try and catch the total solar eclipse, and though we had a fantastic vantage on the terrace of Nahar Niwas, the cloudy sky barred the spectacle. However tea and time spent with Sat overlooking the verdant Shahpura estate, spotting birds was time well spent. Exploring the streets of Shahpura town on foot was great fun, the festival of Rakhi ( this is India’s brother’s day ) was coming up and shops displayed arrays of colourful strings ( much like friend ship bands that sisters tie onto their brother’s wrists ) with oodles of “bling”. The market street was abuzz - silver shops, shoe stores that custom made shoes on the spot, shops selling coloured sweets dripping with syrup , people everywhere buying, selling, chatting. Anjali practised her bargaining skills with the corniest of Hindi lines I have ever heard. In Shahpura over a pair of anklets, she put forth her arguments in “Sindhi” and the amused silver smith conceded to a small discount .


Chittorgarh, a two hour drive from Shahpura Bagh was the first capital of Mewar and remained so for several centuries. It is one of the oldest and most extensive forts of Rajasthan, dating back to the 7th century. The story of Rani Padmini of Chittor is as well known to school children as Rani of Jhansi. For me the victory tower of Chittorgarh symbolised Rajasthan ( thanks to history lessons in school )more than anything else. Sadly Chittorgarh is relegated to being an en-route stop over which is why you won’t find many quality hotels here though hotels like Castle Bijapur and Bassi Fort offer Chittorgarh as excursions.

The drive from Chittorgarh to castle Bijapur was a spectacular ( which is another route I would love to cover on foot ) – the terrain green , with gently undulating mountains, dotted with quaint unspoilt villages. Castle Bijapur comes recommended many times over by several friends in India and abroad and I am glad I made it here. The stories recounted by Rao Narender Singh if it were not so hilarious would really be a lesson in enterprise and hard work. Like I said we fed on stories and food on this trip !

A few routes on this trip are etched in my memory : Udaipur-Kumbalgarh-Ranakpur; Chhatrasagar to Fort Barli ( Bijaipur ); Chittorgarh to Castle Bijapur ; Kota to Bhainsrorgarh. Rajasthan feared for its hot, dry and relentless summers was transformed with the first sign of rain. Every mound and mountain was coloured green, little rivulets filled over, dry river beds came alive and the light from the cloud filled sky bathed the landscapes and cityscapes in ethereal light. Above all there was the talk of water and lakes everywhere, anecdotes and stories were about water – of harvesting it, conserving it, offering special prayers for it.

From Chittorgarh we headed direct to Bhairon Gali in Kota to shop for the gossamer thin Kota cotton sarees. And I must admit we were out-bargained here. The wily shop keeper said plus now and minus later and finally after we had paid up realised that we had paid exactly what was mentioned on the price tag !

Kota came as a surprise to us, well known as a educational and business hub – the town was a melange of old houses along the Chambal river, large tree bound estates which housed heritage hotels , and modern houses and factories spilling over unending boundaries. The day ended at the Kota Railway Station waiting for the August Kranti Rajdhani (delayed due to the rains ) which Anjali was booked on to take her to Mumbai.

It was Bundi, I was bowled over at first sight. Arriving late in the night, the fort was gloriously lit and formed a breathtaking background to our hotel for the night, JP’s Bundi Vilas – a haveli set at the end of one of the old town’s serpentine “gullies” painstakingly renovated into a seven room mid-range hotel and enthusiastically run by the family.

Next morning from the terrace at Bundi Vilas the fort looked shower fresh and enticing. We headed for the briefest of introduction to the fort , of particular interest to us were the Bundi miniatures at Chitrashala and came away discontent, a silent promise to return.

The final destination on this trip was Bhainsrogarh – in many ways a place I would design as the ideal last stop - a place to revel amidst nature, the Chambal River meandering close by. We actually beheld the overwhelming sight of clouds rush in bringing rains and pass by as we stood mesmerised on the veranda leading out from our room .

An unexpected excursion was to the Jawahar Dam on the Chambal and a sunset visit to Garodia Mahadev , a temple perched on a rocky outcrop of the Aravalis, where the Chambal cuts through a deep gorge and literally turns a perfect ‘U’ before flowing into Kota.

Return to Delhi was on the Mewar Express from Kota ( an hour from Bhainsrorgarh ) – just a dreamless night’s sleep away !

Travelling in Rajasthan amidst drizzle and downpour : Part I

By Shoba Mohan

A road tour of Rajasthan this July of 2009 revealed two things – the exceptional beauty of this state in the rains (especially for those like me who are used to the state’s stark winter-scapes ) and that travel was a delight when you have a companion or two, all passionate travellers.

Anjali ( Swaswara ) and I began our journey on the Mewar Express from Nizamuddin Railway Station arriving into Udaipur City. What looked like an impossible itinerary in the beginning was accomplished in totality with very few omissions and changes, however I must admit to uncharacteristic slack timing.

The first drive between Udaipur railway station and Dungarpur took us by surprise. For a state that was lamenting a dissatisfying monsoon, the landscape around us for most part of the two hour drive was an abundance of green.

As we drove into Udai Bilas Palace with a rain cloud in tow, we were rewarded with the fulfilling sight of the Palace snuggling amidst lush trees, the infinity pool effortlessly merging into the lake. Lunch and a quick tour of the palace later, it was time to explore the treasures of the Juna Mahal , a 14th century fort which is where the ruling family of the Guhilot Rajputs resided before moving to the current Palace in the 17th century. The multi-level courtyards, living rooms and public areas including the frescoes and wall art in this palace have been preserved as a museum and one can explore independently aided by signages and carefully sourced information. With some time in our hands we also walked through the old town of Dungarpur, the clean narrow lanes with houses brightly painted in shades of green, blue, pink. Dungarpur is famous for its artisans – stone cutters who sculpt various figures and relief plaques in the blue-grey “pareva” stone that is quarried locally.

Our next stop on this tour of South west and central Rajasthan was Udaipur. The city was over-cast seemed set for poets and lovers to break into songs of love and separation. Our first meal with the Jassols at Devra was an unforgettable home cooked affair, infact all through the ten day trip the meals, stories and the warmth of our friends and associates is what turned this tour, largely an exploration of the region into one of great fun and learning. An unforgettable moment was sitting on Udai Kothi’s terrace, cross legged in one of the candlelit alcoves sipping beer and planning a repeat trip with Daisy and Vishwavijay.

Day three and we had an ambitious program ahead. After a rushed visit to Fateh Garh, a modern day fort incorporating elements of heritage conservation, Vastu and sustainable environment, we were on the winding drive to Kumbalgarh, an invincible battle fort perched on one of the high ridges of the Aravalis. A fresh-lime and soda stop at Aodhi Hotel , a hunting lodge of the erstwhile Mewar Royal family is worth mentioning – clean, prompt and green. This was decided as our perch when we return early next year to accomplish a trek between Kumbalgarh and Ranakpur.

Ranakpur was quiet and unassuming, the beautiful temples standing in quiet grandeur while pilgrims and tourists milled around. It was a meditative moment to watch the temple swathed in surreal light, though the sky was dark with thunder clouds. My best memory of Fateh Bagh, Ranakpur where we stopped for lunch is the kindly old gent , Shivlal . Attired in his traditional dress and a bright red turban, Shivlal was ready with a photography tip or two , a set of keys to show us some rooms and gracefully did the job of five younger men.

A surprise visit was to Narlai, one of the fortress cities under Marwar state ( before independence ). Rawla Narlai, one of the many restored heritage forts in the region is unique in its layout. Intimate gardens have softly spilling fountains, while frequent courtyards have climbers and creepers clambering up its walls. Stunning views from inside Narlai are that of a mammoth granite mountain, majestic, bare and brown - changing colour with the light of the day. This mountain has temples, caves and cenotaphs built on it. The village itself is somewhere you could easily lose yourself with a camera. That is precisely what we did and by the time we reached Deogarh our destination for the night, it was time to head for dinner, but not before being shown to our “rooms” – the “ smallest in the palace” where I could have a party for over 40 people !

Our first vision of Deogarh lit for the night was an enchanting sight, and being the personal guests of the family to be wined and dined and showed around was indeed very special. The family home by the lake ( waiting for a refill from the rains ), their vintage car collection, the other private fort – Fort Seeghsagar and most importantly the numerous stories of the Palace and the ancestors , of short sweet beginnings. We just followed the family around – sometimes amused , sometimes awed.
Still listening to the daring acts of Maharaja Fateh Singh who snubbed the British officers by refusing to attend the 1911 coronation, we ended up over two hours late for our departure to Rohetgarh.
On this tour we spent two nights only at Rohet and Shahpura, which is why both were assimilated at a leisurely pace. Rohet is also where Mohan joined us. Driving in Sid’s jeep to the Bishnoi villages in the backwoods, squatting with the village elders at Dhoondli to partake in the opium ceremony, sunset at Mihirgarh ( Sid’s fantasy fort built on a dune ), spending time at his stables – all thoroughly enjoyable activities were accomplished in a day . After Rohet , the trip was a whirl wind of driving, meeting people, eating upto four delectable meals a day and trying to understand the intricate relationships in Rajasthan where everyone seemed to be related to the other.