Nihangs & Hola Mohalla

- By Shoba Mohan

Nihang Singhs belong to a martial tradition that was initiated by Guru Gobind Singh, the tenth Sikh guru. Their way of life, costume, training in weapons, martial arts and riding has not changed since the Guru's lifetime, more than three hundred years ago.  Some people believe that Nihangs are a relic of the past whose skills do not have a modern relevance, but most admit that Nihang tradition is a colourful part of the Punjab state heritage. The word ‘Nihang’ is Persian for crocodiles and it is believed that the Guru’s forces fought so valiantly that the baffled Mughal army likened the Guru’s men to ferocious crocs.

Nihangs are semi-nomadic people and attempt to preserve their heritage and tradition by strict adherance of rehat maryada (the religious code of social conduct). They still live in camps called chhaawni (cantonment), eat in iron utensils (batta) and move in formations. Men and women both train in horsemanship, swordsmanship, and in the Punjabi martial art known as Gatka.  During foreign rule the Nihangs fearlessly defended Sikh shrines and the Sikh way of life. In times of peace they travel to festivals and fairs throughout India, staging displays of horsemanship and martial skills.

Meaning of Hola Mohalla : The word Hola, an interchangeable phonetic short form of Holla, is a derivative of a Punjabi term meaning onset of attack or frontal assault. Mohalla has an Arabic root and is a description meaning an army battalion or military regiment marching in full regalia. Though some research sites claim that it is an effort to infuse the spirit of combat / aggression the festive ‘Holi’ was converted to ‘Hola’ which almost sounds like a battle cry !

Hola  reminds  people about the tradition of meaningful festivity, and displays the valour inculcated in the Sikh community by Guru Gobind Singh, who took to armed struggle against tyranny. The Shivaliks with the temple of Naina Devi form an impressive back drop for this festival which is preceded many other traditions that span a few days before the actual Hola Mohalla. Massive processions of Nihangs in costumes and color of their sect make their way to Anantpur Sahib, saffron flags hoisted atop every vehicle and the tradition of langar, voluntary community meals are set up all the way to the venue to feed the pilgrims and the devout. 

The third day of the Hola Mohalla coincides with Holi and entirely belongs to the Nihangs, who begin their preparations on this day very early with a bath and prayers. A large number of spectators gather around the place where the Nihangs prepare phenomenal quantities of a concoction of cannabis, milk, almonds, sugar, and other nuts, to be served as pershad throughout the day.  Dressed in new saffron or deep blue robes, the Nihangs move from their chhaawnis led by horsemen beating nagaras (drums). Armed with their traditional weapons, the Nihangs pay obeisance at the historic Gurdwara Takht Keshgarh Sahib ( at Anantpur ) and proceed towards Charan Ganga stadium for the performance. Though the festival itself is a three-day affair, the procession of devotees carries on for a full week, and hundreds of families come in trucks from as far as Calcutta and Patna, Gwalior and Nanded.

A mohalla (procession) to symbolise liberty, freedom, bravery and wisdom is a large part of the celebration. Once called  Guru di ladli fauj (the Guru's beloved army) the Nihangs are the main attraction of the present-day Hola Mohalla celebration. In what appears to be an effortless ( if a bit chaotic )  management the Punjab police and traffic police manages an exodus of close to two lakh people, add to this horses, elephants, tourists cars and buses, bikes and ‘maruts’ it looked like a movie set gone haywire but the program began on schedule at 2 pm.

Colours of the Nihang costume, bedecked horses and elephants , mock battles and martial arts display  ( Gatka ) take up most part of the three hour fest, all the while cheered by an audience chanting in unison – ‘Bole Sonihal”. The most exciting event which had the crowds roaring was when the Nihang’s  displayed their riding skills. Even we, a group of slightly ‘angrez’  could’nt resist going out to the field for a closer look. Racing the wind on Kathiwadi or a Marwari breeds tent pegging, riding standing up and even riding two horses at once were some of the feats displayed. Continuous procession of Nihangs  some who look like war lords seated on pick-ups and suv’s accompanied by some seriously armed followers kept up a steady procession ,  others  on the field put up displays of mock fights with spears, swords and knives. By the end of the three hours , the Charan Ganga stadium an elliptical field of over 10,000 sq. yards  with a seating capacity of over a lakh resembled a battle field enveloped in a cloud of dust, sounds of nagadas ( drums ), chanting and all the breathless cheering from the audience.

It must be added at this point that except for a massive traffic jam ( which we were unaffected by , thanks to our friend Harkeerat’s connections and meticulous planning ) the entire program was completely without incidence – consider this that there is palpable rivalry among various Nihang sects,  a lot of them especially the elders seemed high on cannabis,  the sheer display of machinery strength in terms of sten-guns and AK’s and the swelling crowds was intimidating. To recommend this as a program for inbound tourists would require a huge amount of co-ordination, extensive briefing and possibly a strong disclaimer.

For more images click on the picassa link here :

https://picasaweb.google.com/shobatsm/HollaMohallaMarch202011?authkey=Gv1sRgCJyd-dO3-IvdrgE

Anantpur Sahib a part of the Panj Takth – one of the five main Gurudwars revered by the Sikhs is an important pilgrimage site as this is where the Tenth Sikh Guru, Guru Gobind Singhji initiated the principles of Khalsa and its self-sacrificing, brave and castles fellowship. The Gurudwara here is  Keshgarh Sahib.  

Chamkaur Sahib :  Not far from Anantpur Sahib also in distt. Rupnagar is Chamkaur Sahib that houses the Gurudwara Katalgarh Sahib. This is where Guru Gobind Singh is said to have alighted and used it as a citadel from where two of the most important battles against the Imperial army was fought.  

Fatehpur Sahib near Sirhind is a complex of several important shrines or Gurudwaras that are linked to the younger sahibzadas (younger sons) of Guru Gobind Singh. Located about 40 Kms from Chandigarh and marks the sad site of the execution of the two younger sons of Guru Gobind Singh in 1705 ordered by  Wazir Khan of Kunjpura, Sirhind.   

Hoshiarpur  & Citrus County :   I mention the above three Gurudwaras as they are historically connected and also can be placed in programs between Chandigarh, Hoshiarpur and Amritsar for an intensive itinerary of Sikh Culture with or without  ‘Hola Mohalla’.  

Hoshiarpur District was once an extensive district of Punjab that also included some parts of Himachal. Today an affluent farming zone district head quarters,  Hoshiarpur is a 45 mins drive from Phagwara ( closest rail head on the Amristsar Shatabdi Route ), 2 hours by road from Amritsar and about 5 hours from Dharamshala, the district borders Himachal on one side and has extensive fields of wheat, mustard, poplars etc.  

Citrus County is the personal farm of Harkeerat Singh and his wife Jasleen who own a hundred acres of Kinnow farm in the vicinity of their estate. One of the pilot Farm Stay projects to be approved by the Punjab Government  Citrus County offers accommodation in 9 air-conditioned tents and 3 large Suites in the main house. Run is a very personal ‘welcome to a large house’ fashion Harkeerat and Jasleen put in a lot of effort to offer a warm and friendly experience. Packed meals on picnics, walks in the farms, tractor drives, exploring a jungle of kikkar ( Acacia Nilotica)   and visiting a wetland not far from Hoshiarpur are some explorations that are possible.  http://www.citruscountyfarmstays.com/ . Not really luxury at the moment, Citrus County is presently working on some upgrades which would place it among the best of the farming homestays that are being encouraged by the Punjab tourism.    

Shoba Mohan Based on conversations with the highly informed  and ‘proud to be a Sikh’ Mr.Bhagawant Singh ( Harkeerat’s father ) and information available on sikiwiki.com , allaboutsikhs.com