Travelling in Rajasthan amidst drizzle and downpour : Part 2

By Shoba Mohan

Jodhpur was a quick stop to explore Ras Haveli, eat Mirchi Vadas at TeepSa’s, have an immaculately brewed Darjeeling at the Umaid Bhawan and make it to Chhatra Sagar at top speed. Ras Haveli is Jodhpur’s latest intrigue - a classy and contemporary new boutique hotel built at the foot of the towering Mehrangarh Fort. Auto Rickshaws painted blue are assigned to pick you up from the city centre right into the Haveli gates, but not before you are overwhelmed by the narrow and scruffy , colourful and commercial lanes of the old city.

A late lunch at Chhatra Sagar as always was a meal to cherish over a lively conversation of which all I remember is bursting into peals of laughter. Fort Barli over two hours from Chhatra Sagar was our next stop, reaching there well after the sun was set. Aniruddh Singh and his family’s warm welcome and offer to stay the night was most tempting . However Shahpura Bagh was on the agenda for the night. On reaching, all we managed was a brief hello and hit the snoozers in our assigned suites.

Next morning began early to try and catch the total solar eclipse, and though we had a fantastic vantage on the terrace of Nahar Niwas, the cloudy sky barred the spectacle. However tea and time spent with Sat overlooking the verdant Shahpura estate, spotting birds was time well spent. Exploring the streets of Shahpura town on foot was great fun, the festival of Rakhi ( this is India’s brother’s day ) was coming up and shops displayed arrays of colourful strings ( much like friend ship bands that sisters tie onto their brother’s wrists ) with oodles of “bling”. The market street was abuzz - silver shops, shoe stores that custom made shoes on the spot, shops selling coloured sweets dripping with syrup , people everywhere buying, selling, chatting. Anjali practised her bargaining skills with the corniest of Hindi lines I have ever heard. In Shahpura over a pair of anklets, she put forth her arguments in “Sindhi” and the amused silver smith conceded to a small discount .


Chittorgarh, a two hour drive from Shahpura Bagh was the first capital of Mewar and remained so for several centuries. It is one of the oldest and most extensive forts of Rajasthan, dating back to the 7th century. The story of Rani Padmini of Chittor is as well known to school children as Rani of Jhansi. For me the victory tower of Chittorgarh symbolised Rajasthan ( thanks to history lessons in school )more than anything else. Sadly Chittorgarh is relegated to being an en-route stop over which is why you won’t find many quality hotels here though hotels like Castle Bijapur and Bassi Fort offer Chittorgarh as excursions.

The drive from Chittorgarh to castle Bijapur was a spectacular ( which is another route I would love to cover on foot ) – the terrain green , with gently undulating mountains, dotted with quaint unspoilt villages. Castle Bijapur comes recommended many times over by several friends in India and abroad and I am glad I made it here. The stories recounted by Rao Narender Singh if it were not so hilarious would really be a lesson in enterprise and hard work. Like I said we fed on stories and food on this trip !

A few routes on this trip are etched in my memory : Udaipur-Kumbalgarh-Ranakpur; Chhatrasagar to Fort Barli ( Bijaipur ); Chittorgarh to Castle Bijapur ; Kota to Bhainsrorgarh. Rajasthan feared for its hot, dry and relentless summers was transformed with the first sign of rain. Every mound and mountain was coloured green, little rivulets filled over, dry river beds came alive and the light from the cloud filled sky bathed the landscapes and cityscapes in ethereal light. Above all there was the talk of water and lakes everywhere, anecdotes and stories were about water – of harvesting it, conserving it, offering special prayers for it.

From Chittorgarh we headed direct to Bhairon Gali in Kota to shop for the gossamer thin Kota cotton sarees. And I must admit we were out-bargained here. The wily shop keeper said plus now and minus later and finally after we had paid up realised that we had paid exactly what was mentioned on the price tag !

Kota came as a surprise to us, well known as a educational and business hub – the town was a melange of old houses along the Chambal river, large tree bound estates which housed heritage hotels , and modern houses and factories spilling over unending boundaries. The day ended at the Kota Railway Station waiting for the August Kranti Rajdhani (delayed due to the rains ) which Anjali was booked on to take her to Mumbai.

It was Bundi, I was bowled over at first sight. Arriving late in the night, the fort was gloriously lit and formed a breathtaking background to our hotel for the night, JP’s Bundi Vilas – a haveli set at the end of one of the old town’s serpentine “gullies” painstakingly renovated into a seven room mid-range hotel and enthusiastically run by the family.

Next morning from the terrace at Bundi Vilas the fort looked shower fresh and enticing. We headed for the briefest of introduction to the fort , of particular interest to us were the Bundi miniatures at Chitrashala and came away discontent, a silent promise to return.

The final destination on this trip was Bhainsrogarh – in many ways a place I would design as the ideal last stop - a place to revel amidst nature, the Chambal River meandering close by. We actually beheld the overwhelming sight of clouds rush in bringing rains and pass by as we stood mesmerised on the veranda leading out from our room .

An unexpected excursion was to the Jawahar Dam on the Chambal and a sunset visit to Garodia Mahadev , a temple perched on a rocky outcrop of the Aravalis, where the Chambal cuts through a deep gorge and literally turns a perfect ‘U’ before flowing into Kota.

Return to Delhi was on the Mewar Express from Kota ( an hour from Bhainsrorgarh ) – just a dreamless night’s sleep away !

Travelling in Rajasthan amidst drizzle and downpour : Part I

By Shoba Mohan

A road tour of Rajasthan this July of 2009 revealed two things – the exceptional beauty of this state in the rains (especially for those like me who are used to the state’s stark winter-scapes ) and that travel was a delight when you have a companion or two, all passionate travellers.

Anjali ( Swaswara ) and I began our journey on the Mewar Express from Nizamuddin Railway Station arriving into Udaipur City. What looked like an impossible itinerary in the beginning was accomplished in totality with very few omissions and changes, however I must admit to uncharacteristic slack timing.

The first drive between Udaipur railway station and Dungarpur took us by surprise. For a state that was lamenting a dissatisfying monsoon, the landscape around us for most part of the two hour drive was an abundance of green.

As we drove into Udai Bilas Palace with a rain cloud in tow, we were rewarded with the fulfilling sight of the Palace snuggling amidst lush trees, the infinity pool effortlessly merging into the lake. Lunch and a quick tour of the palace later, it was time to explore the treasures of the Juna Mahal , a 14th century fort which is where the ruling family of the Guhilot Rajputs resided before moving to the current Palace in the 17th century. The multi-level courtyards, living rooms and public areas including the frescoes and wall art in this palace have been preserved as a museum and one can explore independently aided by signages and carefully sourced information. With some time in our hands we also walked through the old town of Dungarpur, the clean narrow lanes with houses brightly painted in shades of green, blue, pink. Dungarpur is famous for its artisans – stone cutters who sculpt various figures and relief plaques in the blue-grey “pareva” stone that is quarried locally.

Our next stop on this tour of South west and central Rajasthan was Udaipur. The city was over-cast seemed set for poets and lovers to break into songs of love and separation. Our first meal with the Jassols at Devra was an unforgettable home cooked affair, infact all through the ten day trip the meals, stories and the warmth of our friends and associates is what turned this tour, largely an exploration of the region into one of great fun and learning. An unforgettable moment was sitting on Udai Kothi’s terrace, cross legged in one of the candlelit alcoves sipping beer and planning a repeat trip with Daisy and Vishwavijay.

Day three and we had an ambitious program ahead. After a rushed visit to Fateh Garh, a modern day fort incorporating elements of heritage conservation, Vastu and sustainable environment, we were on the winding drive to Kumbalgarh, an invincible battle fort perched on one of the high ridges of the Aravalis. A fresh-lime and soda stop at Aodhi Hotel , a hunting lodge of the erstwhile Mewar Royal family is worth mentioning – clean, prompt and green. This was decided as our perch when we return early next year to accomplish a trek between Kumbalgarh and Ranakpur.

Ranakpur was quiet and unassuming, the beautiful temples standing in quiet grandeur while pilgrims and tourists milled around. It was a meditative moment to watch the temple swathed in surreal light, though the sky was dark with thunder clouds. My best memory of Fateh Bagh, Ranakpur where we stopped for lunch is the kindly old gent , Shivlal . Attired in his traditional dress and a bright red turban, Shivlal was ready with a photography tip or two , a set of keys to show us some rooms and gracefully did the job of five younger men.

A surprise visit was to Narlai, one of the fortress cities under Marwar state ( before independence ). Rawla Narlai, one of the many restored heritage forts in the region is unique in its layout. Intimate gardens have softly spilling fountains, while frequent courtyards have climbers and creepers clambering up its walls. Stunning views from inside Narlai are that of a mammoth granite mountain, majestic, bare and brown - changing colour with the light of the day. This mountain has temples, caves and cenotaphs built on it. The village itself is somewhere you could easily lose yourself with a camera. That is precisely what we did and by the time we reached Deogarh our destination for the night, it was time to head for dinner, but not before being shown to our “rooms” – the “ smallest in the palace” where I could have a party for over 40 people !

Our first vision of Deogarh lit for the night was an enchanting sight, and being the personal guests of the family to be wined and dined and showed around was indeed very special. The family home by the lake ( waiting for a refill from the rains ), their vintage car collection, the other private fort – Fort Seeghsagar and most importantly the numerous stories of the Palace and the ancestors , of short sweet beginnings. We just followed the family around – sometimes amused , sometimes awed.
Still listening to the daring acts of Maharaja Fateh Singh who snubbed the British officers by refusing to attend the 1911 coronation, we ended up over two hours late for our departure to Rohetgarh.
On this tour we spent two nights only at Rohet and Shahpura, which is why both were assimilated at a leisurely pace. Rohet is also where Mohan joined us. Driving in Sid’s jeep to the Bishnoi villages in the backwoods, squatting with the village elders at Dhoondli to partake in the opium ceremony, sunset at Mihirgarh ( Sid’s fantasy fort built on a dune ), spending time at his stables – all thoroughly enjoyable activities were accomplished in a day . After Rohet , the trip was a whirl wind of driving, meeting people, eating upto four delectable meals a day and trying to understand the intricate relationships in Rajasthan where everyone seemed to be related to the other.

Exploring Kumaon Himalayas

By Shoba Mohan

A trip into the hills and valleys of Kumaon with two friends – a photographer and a retired diplomat, both from America was a quirky adventure I was looking forward to after a period of self-confinement.

Getting off the Ranikhet Express at Kathgodam railway station on a cool April morning, the drive to Fishermen’s Lodge Bhimtal for breakfast was planned many months in advance. Doing what I do, that is advising people about beautiful places to visit and stay, when I see brochures that tell me lot but images that say too little, I just have to see the place. And Fishermen’s Lodge was being chanted to me from all quarters……

Driving along the lake, the first glimpse of the building, a grey stone cuboid with broad white lines did not stop my breath, what did was the skimming view of the lake from the deck, built right at the entrance. Shown to the rooms for a quick “wash and change” – I was IMPRESSED.

And as I explored and was shown around, the thoroughness of Bindu and Bunti’s maiden endeavor to emulate one of the Irish bed- breakfasts in India’s ‘lake district’ was laudable . The rooms in colours teal and mauve , the quiet and trained service, small details - white baskets to roll your comforters into, tiny balconies overlooking the lake, a add-on pantry ( god ! she did think of everything ) for young nervous mums , a table on the deck heaving with breakfast, the aroma of freshly brewed coffee and, I was tempted to stay on for a nice long vacation ! For those unfamiliar with Kumaon, Bhimtal is one of the many lakes that dot this region of the lower Himalayas. http://www.thefishermenslodge.com/

Almora is alleged to be the first hill station that the British discovered to this side of the north, it was also a popular hangout of the flower power era in the sixties and to this date you will find some returning to explore or couples who met then having stayed on to make Almora their home. Deiter and Geeta, who own and run Kalmatia Sangam are one such couple. With 10 cottages named after Himalayan birds that frequent the Kali-mat estate - Scarlett Minivet, Himalayan Magpie etc. Built in the typical sloped roof cottages typical to mountain resorts, Ka Sa’s cottages are scattered on a sloping pine grove overlooking breathtaking views of the western Himalayan ranges ( on a clear day). Dieter walked the trails around Almora, exploring villages for years and the Kali-mat village treks which is what we did for the next five days are a result of his innumerable explorations.

The three village house are set at about 5-6 hours walking distance from each other and as you walk, across valleys, dive into clouds, ascend terraces, skid down slopes, catch your breath in fields, stop at ridges for a leisurely picnic lunch – I felt I could walk for ever. Fresh air, villagers with face splitting grins, going about their chores, thumping grain , rocking babies, drying millet……. it all seemed so simple, life and living, working and laughing, praying and waiting. Piping hot meals – local vegetables, rice and coarse bread ( rotis ) quickly rustled up by Yoginder our trek guide and his team of two. Sometimes like in Jawalbhanj ( the last village house ) we always dined to our cranky host’s commentary on the rising prices and diminishing fire wood ! Yoginder our hearty trek guide was always ready to arrange tea or to regale us with stories of semi-divine kings of the region. In the village houses, restored to its traditional form and space, beds were comfortable and inviting after a day’s walk, warmed up to a toast by the bukharis and sleep was effortless as was the waking to bird song.

There were some “readers digest” moments too when we were caught in a frightening storm, wind and icy cold rains hitting at us as we shivered up a steep hill to seek refuge in a Shiva temple midway between Kalmatia and Deora. Shelter in a low stone hut around a fire of pine needles could not have been more welcome. There were some “ I give up “ moments too, trying to maneuver a tricky slope on the Binsar walk. We did cheat a bit and drove a stretch, but never gave up on the walking – a minimum walk of 4 hours per day or a maximum of 6 hours was accomplished effortlessly and our gift was the spectacular sunrise vision of the Himalayas on the last day. Only to find that on return to Kalmatia the rains had driven the haze and views of the Vanilla tops from Kalmatia Sangam seemed close enough to touch.

Post all the walking two things I welcomed - a sunset drink with Dieter and friends and Imogen’s massage the next morning. For small pleasures like these I could walk to the very ends of the earth !

The euphoria of the walks dimmed a bit thanks to a confusing drive to Corbett – and Jim’s Jungle Retreat and safari lodge style luxury awaited us. My travel companions couldn’t wait to jump into the pool and I couldn't wait to set off into the Corbett Jungles. Walking on the pebbly bed of Kosi acquainted us with the tiny call of the Copper Smith bird and we saw pug marks of the resident male tiger all along the river bed.
However my wish to see him at the next turn the river took remained unfulfilled. Drives with a disinterested Forest official into the Corbett National Park yielded the rare ( so he said ) sighting of a yellow throated Martin, langurs, spotted deer and birds - a family of wooly necked cranes, a Himalayan flame back, jungle owlet, Shikara etc. What I particularly enjoyed was riding the temperamental elephant Kaleena in the Corbett Jungle. She would stop for her friends, refuse to take a slope, shower us with a stream of saliva……. but as she swayed and rolled amidst the forest trees and thicket….. you are lulled by the quietude, the emerald green of the jungles, vague smells of rotting flesh - may be a tiger kill lying somewhere, informs our Mahout, Afsal. We see nothing….. but the afternoon sun and Kaleena’s rolling gait has already rocked us to contentment.

Christmas at Dharamsala Dec 2008

By Shoba Mohan

The colloquially correct way of saying Mcleod Ganj is “ Mcload Ganj” . That’s what people call this tiny little hill town granted to the Tibetans as their haven by the Indian Government. Dharamshala in the Kangra region of Himachal is divided as upper Dhramshala and Lower Dharamshala. Hundreds of migrants forced out of Tibet have settled around Upper Dharamshala at a height of 1700 mts , a virtual relocation complete with a government in exile, secretariat , monasteries and flourishing businesses. The main town is a series of criss-cross sloping streets that extend from the Temple and Residence of HH Dalai Lama to the main chowk ( square ) right at the beginning of the town. From the square the roads also extend out towards Naddi and Bhagsu on one side and down to the Kotwali Bazaar and lower Dhramshala on the other.

Mcleod Ganj especially during milder winter months upto December end and early January is a coveted holiday destination for many Indians as well as foreign visitors. For Indians the climate of Mcleod Ganj in the vicinity of the Dhauladhar ranges of the Himalayas make it an ideal vacation while the westerners come here seeking the presence of HH Dalai Lama , monasteries and Tibetan learning centres. For all visitors the rows of books shops, cafes and restaurants are great places to hang out. There is a certain trance like element walking those lanes in and around the Dalai Lama’s temple. Cafe’s playing music, Tibetan women chatting away, momos steaming by the side of the road, a huge brown woolly dog flopped below the popcorn cart, monks in animated conversation under the suns lengthening shadows, the prayer wheels spinning in slow motion till another reverent hand passes over .......

A three day trip to Mcleod Ganj was accomplished with the primary intent of attending the mid night mass on Christmas eve at the Church of St.John’s in the wilderness. On a previous visit in August with a friend , we imagined how it would be to be a part of the Christmas eve celebrations. And lo ! something planned that long back was actually put into action and we boarded the Jammu Mail on the Dec 23 in good time for Carol singing at St. John’s on the Dec 24. The biting cold weather of Mcleod Ganj would not allow for a mid night mass in the real sense so Father Kunjumon called for a more appropriate Mass at 7 in the evening. The church was packed to capacity with people from all nationalities, infact the choir group was a wonderfully varied group who passed out the candles and photo copies of some popular carols. To the accompanying notes of a violin they sang beautifully, beginning with “Silent Night “. In between the local choir group joined in with a few songs in Hindi. Biting cold with the anticipation of snow, a quick tea and biscuit was to be our after-mass treat and we made it back through the winding roads back to Glenmoor Cottages.

Glenmoor Cottages is a short distance from the main square of Mcleod Ganj and through the dense well preserved deodar forest you would walk 15 minutes uphill right up to your big cottage behind Om Villa – the owners residence. A compact estate spread along the mountain side, Glenmoor is Dharamshala’s best accommodation if you are not too caught up about wanting to stay in town or by the temple. 3 Small cottages ideal for a couple with small children and 2 large cottages best if you have grown up kids and a couple of beds only with bathroom to share for those looking for a deal is the limited accommodation that Glenmoor provides. Rooms are neat and correct, I mean a small sit out, curtains, attached bathrooms, piping hot water, carpeted ( not the fluffy smelly kinds that you so often find in hill hotels but a thin red layer to keep the chill off the floors ) , table, chairs, bed side lights, extra blankets....... and anything you want is just a phone call away. What’s more it is wi-fi enabled but I recommend you strictly keep that laptop away and enjoy the beautiful outdoors – the sunrise and sunset over the lush deodars..... its seems so far away from city dust, that you should savour the moment.

In the end the trip turned out to be a “chiller” – hours of badminton outdoors , listening to fabulous hill stories from Ajaiji ( who owns Glenmoor ), living from meal to meal and coffee to coffee while we discovered one restaurant after another – Jimmy’s ( Italian ) , Moonpeak and Sambhala ( cafe ) , Pemathang ( pizza’s and salads ) , Lungta ( for a Japanese thali and snow ball cookies ). The one day we decided to do some sightseeing ended up to be another culinary visit to Taragarh Palace where the boys got hooked to hill country cricket with the staff of the hotel. By the time they were threatened out of their game to visit the Sarin’s at Tara Villa and drive back to Glenmoor, the stars were out. A moment that thrilled us ( amateur photographers and enthusiastic explorers ) is a forced stop at a Kangra Railway Crossing – the toy train emerging around a bend in the middle of a field with the vanilla ice cream topped mountains in the background. The best photographer amongst us ( armed with a near professional camera and eye for frames ) got some memorable shots.

And then the drive back to Pathankot railway station stopping by at Kotwali bazaar to pick up a CD of ‘Dostana’ and we “shut up and bounced” all the way back to the station, warning the driver to take it easy time and again. I must mention here that most mountain drivers drive like crazy – having travelled alone, in groups , with fellow women travellers I am still to find one who is not winding down the convoluted roads as if his tail is on fire. Anyway we reached safe, well in time to have a fulfilling dinner at the “Khalsa Hindu Dhaba” – I did mention we lived from meal to meal on this trip !

The train ride back was uneventful except for the usual attempt at juggling seats with fellow passengers so that our group could have berths together. This time we were lucky, a young couple willingly gave up their bay seats in exchange for the two seats we had at the end of the coach. And yes the train was a few hours late and when we finally slid to a halt at Old Delhi Railway Station it was close to noon.

REVIEWING - SLUM DOG MILLIONAIRE

By Shoba Mohan

I love the movies. But when a movie is preceded by hype and attention however well intended, i usually refrain from “first day - first show”. After SDM , and having spent a night and morning ruminating on the film , i would say – “ I love the film”. Its movie magic for sure.

The first half was revolting and nauseating but you won’t walk away because the story has got to you. The breathless unfurling of hope, keeps you in your seat . You want to see for yourself where it goes, even though for the last one month you have read every review, blog and comment. Rehman’s music is an integral part of the movie, it is hard to imagine the compelling moments of the film without it.

I also like the idea of life being the biggest teacher and the catch in the end before the million dollar question. I have seen some fantastic films based on life in the slum. However as SLM weaves its story around a fantasy and a romance, the squalor and hard hitting truths just become a part of Jamal’s journey. Also the teaming of the east and west has been perfect in this case – an Indian story and a cinematographer from the west. Not for a moment does the camera linger – so it is effectively a glimpse. Sample this ; as the camera pans over Dharavi – ( Rehman’s racy score here is a winner as the kids gleefully run through gullies ) the atmosphere of the slums is established even as the children are chased by the constable .

The film’s brevity of scenes and juxtaposition of sequences is another strong point. The story moves back and forth, always in context but does not shy away from addressing a larger audience – hence it is Amitabh that little Jamal covered in crap goes to see and not Shahrukh Khan. Its Amitabh’s films that he has grown up watching – in the nineties ?? These are intelligent inclusions on the script writers part – also adding to the movies international appeal.

For movie buffs there are fine nuances – the grudging turnaround of the inspector superbly portrayed by Irfan Khan, so so subtle. I am a fan more for implication can explicitness and Danny Boyle’s film has many such implied moments. His superb direction is evident in scenes which Bollywood would have highlighted, in Boyle’s film its only a quick glimpse and then relegated to the back ground. For eg : Latika being taken into the taxi and the glint of steel. Only the next scene shows the damage.

Earlier I used to think what’s the big deal about casting, those were the days when a film was written for the superstar. In Slum Dog.... you have to applaud Loveleen Tandon’s superb casting right down to the ears of the 3 chaps who played Jamal ! And how they got the kids to speak with their eyes ??? Wow !

When Jamal says that it’s not the money he is after and he hopes Latika would see him on TV and that is the reason he is here. I like that.
That circumstances have not made a cynic of Jamal Malik.

Lastly you leave the hall elated . Jamal is still dewy eyed after all that he has seen in his young life ! Very Rare ! Very Bollywood. Jai Ho !

Still there is plenty we must have missed...... i strongly recommend an encore !