Exploring Kumaon Himalayas

By Shoba Mohan

A trip into the hills and valleys of Kumaon with two friends – a photographer and a retired diplomat, both from America was a quirky adventure I was looking forward to after a period of self-confinement.

Getting off the Ranikhet Express at Kathgodam railway station on a cool April morning, the drive to Fishermen’s Lodge Bhimtal for breakfast was planned many months in advance. Doing what I do, that is advising people about beautiful places to visit and stay, when I see brochures that tell me lot but images that say too little, I just have to see the place. And Fishermen’s Lodge was being chanted to me from all quarters……

Driving along the lake, the first glimpse of the building, a grey stone cuboid with broad white lines did not stop my breath, what did was the skimming view of the lake from the deck, built right at the entrance. Shown to the rooms for a quick “wash and change” – I was IMPRESSED.

And as I explored and was shown around, the thoroughness of Bindu and Bunti’s maiden endeavor to emulate one of the Irish bed- breakfasts in India’s ‘lake district’ was laudable . The rooms in colours teal and mauve , the quiet and trained service, small details - white baskets to roll your comforters into, tiny balconies overlooking the lake, a add-on pantry ( god ! she did think of everything ) for young nervous mums , a table on the deck heaving with breakfast, the aroma of freshly brewed coffee and, I was tempted to stay on for a nice long vacation ! For those unfamiliar with Kumaon, Bhimtal is one of the many lakes that dot this region of the lower Himalayas. http://www.thefishermenslodge.com/

Almora is alleged to be the first hill station that the British discovered to this side of the north, it was also a popular hangout of the flower power era in the sixties and to this date you will find some returning to explore or couples who met then having stayed on to make Almora their home. Deiter and Geeta, who own and run Kalmatia Sangam are one such couple. With 10 cottages named after Himalayan birds that frequent the Kali-mat estate - Scarlett Minivet, Himalayan Magpie etc. Built in the typical sloped roof cottages typical to mountain resorts, Ka Sa’s cottages are scattered on a sloping pine grove overlooking breathtaking views of the western Himalayan ranges ( on a clear day). Dieter walked the trails around Almora, exploring villages for years and the Kali-mat village treks which is what we did for the next five days are a result of his innumerable explorations.

The three village house are set at about 5-6 hours walking distance from each other and as you walk, across valleys, dive into clouds, ascend terraces, skid down slopes, catch your breath in fields, stop at ridges for a leisurely picnic lunch – I felt I could walk for ever. Fresh air, villagers with face splitting grins, going about their chores, thumping grain , rocking babies, drying millet……. it all seemed so simple, life and living, working and laughing, praying and waiting. Piping hot meals – local vegetables, rice and coarse bread ( rotis ) quickly rustled up by Yoginder our trek guide and his team of two. Sometimes like in Jawalbhanj ( the last village house ) we always dined to our cranky host’s commentary on the rising prices and diminishing fire wood ! Yoginder our hearty trek guide was always ready to arrange tea or to regale us with stories of semi-divine kings of the region. In the village houses, restored to its traditional form and space, beds were comfortable and inviting after a day’s walk, warmed up to a toast by the bukharis and sleep was effortless as was the waking to bird song.

There were some “readers digest” moments too when we were caught in a frightening storm, wind and icy cold rains hitting at us as we shivered up a steep hill to seek refuge in a Shiva temple midway between Kalmatia and Deora. Shelter in a low stone hut around a fire of pine needles could not have been more welcome. There were some “ I give up “ moments too, trying to maneuver a tricky slope on the Binsar walk. We did cheat a bit and drove a stretch, but never gave up on the walking – a minimum walk of 4 hours per day or a maximum of 6 hours was accomplished effortlessly and our gift was the spectacular sunrise vision of the Himalayas on the last day. Only to find that on return to Kalmatia the rains had driven the haze and views of the Vanilla tops from Kalmatia Sangam seemed close enough to touch.

Post all the walking two things I welcomed - a sunset drink with Dieter and friends and Imogen’s massage the next morning. For small pleasures like these I could walk to the very ends of the earth !

The euphoria of the walks dimmed a bit thanks to a confusing drive to Corbett – and Jim’s Jungle Retreat and safari lodge style luxury awaited us. My travel companions couldn’t wait to jump into the pool and I couldn't wait to set off into the Corbett Jungles. Walking on the pebbly bed of Kosi acquainted us with the tiny call of the Copper Smith bird and we saw pug marks of the resident male tiger all along the river bed.
However my wish to see him at the next turn the river took remained unfulfilled. Drives with a disinterested Forest official into the Corbett National Park yielded the rare ( so he said ) sighting of a yellow throated Martin, langurs, spotted deer and birds - a family of wooly necked cranes, a Himalayan flame back, jungle owlet, Shikara etc. What I particularly enjoyed was riding the temperamental elephant Kaleena in the Corbett Jungle. She would stop for her friends, refuse to take a slope, shower us with a stream of saliva……. but as she swayed and rolled amidst the forest trees and thicket….. you are lulled by the quietude, the emerald green of the jungles, vague smells of rotting flesh - may be a tiger kill lying somewhere, informs our Mahout, Afsal. We see nothing….. but the afternoon sun and Kaleena’s rolling gait has already rocked us to contentment.